Ask for the VIN before visiting
Any legitimate seller will provide this without hesitation.
21 September 2026
You’ve found a car that looks great, the price seems fair, and the seller seems honest. But how do you know what you can’t see? Hidden accident damage, a clocked odometer, outstanding finance — these problems cost real money, and they’re almost impossible to spot without a structured approach.
This checklist walks you through every stage of a used car purchase: from the moment you first contact the seller, to the documents you should check, the physical inspection, the test drive, and the all-important history report. Use it at every viewing — without exception.
Half the work of buying a used car happens before you see it in person. A few minutes online can reveal whether a viewing is even worth your time.
Any legitimate seller will provide this without hesitation.
Check at coc-auto.eu/check-your-vin/ — accidents, mileage, theft, finance for €19.99.
Private seller: ask for name and address. Dealer: check their registration and reviews.
Use AutoScout24, OLX, or mobile.de to compare similar makes, models, and mileages in your region.
A car "currently abroad" or needing payment upfront before viewing is a major red flag.
Bodywork damage, paint mismatches, and rust are almost impossible to spot in artificial light or at night.
A second pair of eyes is invaluable. If possible, bring someone with mechanical knowledge.
Before you look at the car itself, check the paperwork. Mismatched or missing documents can make a car impossible to register, insure, or resell — regardless of its physical condition.
Confirm the seller's name matches the registered keeper. Check the address is genuine.
Cross-check the VIN on the dashboard, door jamb, and registration documents — all three must match.
Required for importing or re-registering the vehicle in another EU country. Missing? COC-Auto can obtain one.
Full stamped service history is ideal. Verify stamps with the garages listed if possible.
Check the expiry date and look for any advisories noted on previous certificates.
The logbook shows this. Cross-reference with your VIN report to ensure nothing is missing.
Confirmed in your VIN history report. Buying a car with outstanding finance can mean losing it to the lender.
Helps confirm ownership chain. Ask if the seller has it.
Walk slowly around the entire car before opening a door. Bodywork tells a story — panel gaps, paint texture, and rust can all reveal a car’s true history even when the seller hasn’t disclosed it.
Uneven gaps between panels (bonnet, doors, wings) suggest accident repair or poor bodywork.
Crouch down and look along the bodywork in natural light. Colour or texture differences indicate resprays.
Surface rust can be cosmetic; structural rust around sills or chassis rails is expensive or dangerous.
Run your fingers along panels. Filler feels slightly different to metal and may indicate hidden damage.
Windscreen replacement is expensive. Small chips may be repairable; cracks usually aren't.
Check headlights, brake lights, indicators, fog lights, and reversing lights.
Uneven wear can indicate suspension or tracking issues. Minimum legal tread is 1.6mm — budget for replacement if near limit.
Mismatched tyres suggest previous damage or a seller cutting costs.
Check the spare is inflated and in good condition, and that all locking wheel nut keys are present.
Ask to lift the car on a ramp if possible, or use a torch to check what you can from a crouch.
Always inspect the engine cold if you can. Ask that the car hasn’t been warmed up before your visit — a warm engine can mask starting problems, smoke, and unusual noises.
Hesitant starting, excessive cranking, or rough idle can signal battery, fuel system, or engine issues.
Engine, oil, ABS, airbag, or transmission warning lights all require investigation before purchase.
Pull the dipstick. Oil should be amber/brown, not black-sludgy or milky (milky oil can indicate a blown head gasket).
Check the expansion tank level. Brown or oily coolant can indicate head gasket failure.
Blue smoke = burning oil. White smoke = coolant/head gasket. Black smoke = fuel system issue (diesel). Small white vapour on start-up in cold weather is normal.
Knocking, ticking, rattling, or grinding are all warning signs. Some are minor; others are expensive.
A recently jet-washed engine bay on an older car can mask leaks. Look carefully around gaskets and seals.
A snapped cambelt can write off an engine. Check the manufacturer's recommended replacement interval and whether it's been done.
Manual: no crunching or difficulty selecting gears. Automatic: no hesitation, slipping, or harsh changes.
The checklist tells you what you can see. The VIN report tells you what you can't.
Accidents, mileage fraud, theft, outstanding finance — all in one report.
Test every button. Electrical faults are disproportionately expensive to diagnose and repair.
A regas costs around €80–120. If it doesn't work, factor this into your offer.
Test at low, medium, and high fan speeds. Blower motor failures are common on older cars.
Check navigation updates are available for the system. Older proprietary systems can be expensive to replace.
Excessive wear for the claimed mileage is a red flag for a clocked odometer.
Check carpets in footwells, boot, and under mats. A damp or musty smell is a warning sign of a flood-damaged vehicle.
An illuminated airbag light means the system may not deploy in a crash. This is an MOT failure item.
Replacement smart keys can cost €200–600. If only one key is present, negotiate accordingly.
Never buy a car without a test drive. A short one around the block isn’t enough — ask for at least 20–30 minutes including motorway speeds if possible. You’re listening and feeling for problems that only emerge under load.
Pulling indicates tracking misalignment, tyre issues, or — more seriously — accident damage to the chassis.
Apply brakes firmly at low speed. Juddering suggests warped discs; pulling suggests a seized calliper.
Check for vibration at speed and that the wheel self-centres correctly after turning.
Wheel vibration usually indicates wheel balancing or a tyre issue. Floor vibration can be a drivetrain problem.
Find a rough road or speed bump. Clunks suggest worn suspension bushes, drop links, or ball joints.
A very high biting point usually means the clutch is near the end of its life. Budget for replacement.
Some warning lights only appear under load or at operating temperature — not just on start-up.
Overheating or failure to reach temperature can indicate thermostat or cooling system issues.
Use your checklist findings as negotiation points. Get quotes for repairs before agreeing a price.
Include the VIN, agreed price, mileage, date, and both parties' names and addresses. This protects you legally.
Bank transfer leaves a traceable record. Avoid paying cash for high-value purchases, and never pay before seeing the car.
Don't accept promises of documents "to follow" — get everything before or at the point of payment.
You must have at minimum third-party insurance to drive the car from the moment you own it.
Without a Certificate of Conformity, registration may be impossible. COC-Auto can source this for you.
No checklist is a substitute for a proper pre-purchase inspection by an independent mechanic — but most people don’t get one, and most transactions go through without one. This checklist gives you a structured, methodical approach that catches the majority of problems before they become yours.
The key principle: leave your emotions at home. A car that “just feels right” can still have a clocked odometer, undisclosed accident damage, or a finance agreement you’d inherit. Work through the checklist. Check the VIN. Then make your decision.
Accidents, mileage history, theft records, outstanding finance — full carVertical report.